Church Ope Cove, Rufus Castle and Pirate Graves on the Isle of Portland
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Portland's Church Ope Cove is a secluded pebble beach on the sheltered east coast of the island. The beautiful cove has a history linked to pirates, smuggling, Viking attacks, and the area is known for its hidden passages and smuggling activities.
Our route started at the small road between Portland Museum and The Pennsylvania Estate and we followed signs down the road towards Rufus Castle. We went under a huge arch and the views of Rufus Castle and the sea were just incredible.
Rufus Castle (aka Bow and Arrow Castle) is a 15th century castle (some parts are known to have dated back to the 1100’s) which is built on the rocky promontory of the island. It is likely that the first castle on this site was built for William II, who was known as William Rufus, however more recent assessments also identify Gilbert de Clare, 7th Earl of Gloucester (the Red Earl) as a possible origin for the name. Rebuilt in the 15th century, the remains today date from this time with the exception of the single arch which you walk through. Interestingly, the nickname ‘Bow and Arrow Castle’ is due to the fact that the 7 foot thick walls are dotted with arrow slits which allowed archers to fire at any invading forces.
From here we descended down the many steps which led us to Church Ope Cove. I did try counting them but then one of the kids distracted me and it went out the window haha. Let’s just say there’s quite a few.
The cove itself is so pretty and all you can hear are the waves crashing, birds singing in the distance and the odd child throwing stones in the water. There’s hardly any sand to make your own castles but we spent a while looking for fossils and had a go at cairn building which is where you balance rocks one on top of the other.
On the way down we’d spotted another path up to St Andrew’s Church ruins so we walked back the way we came and then took the alternative path which led us to the Pirates Graveyard.
The kids were super excited to find the graves which date back to the 18th century and it didn’t take them long. A lot of the writing on the ancient headstones is hard to read but the skulls and crossbones are clear and it was a perfect place for their dad to make up some stories about the pirates who were buried here.
Some say they are not ‘real’ pirate graves as it is written that in medieval times, the skull and crossbones represented the mortality of mankind, and thus it was a popular symbolism on graves. This was appropriated by pirates, and therefore we automatically make the link. Personally I’m not fussed either way and thoroughly enjoyed making the discovery. The views from this vantage point are stunning and if you’re lucky you might spot some lizards lurking on the stones. It’s certainly a great place to stop for a rest, that is until one of the kids say they need a wee!
We followed the path back up, through another pretty archway and woodland before coming back up alongside the Pennsylviania Estate and back to the main road.
While we were there we met lots of lovely walkers who were happy to point us in the right direction but one thing I won’t recommend is a buggy as there’s lots of steps to take on the route. Our trip took us nearly 2 hours but we stop a lot so the children could play.
Good to know:
• This route is not buggy or wheelchair friendly.
• Re toilets, online forums informed me there are toilets on the beach but I couldn’t see them to confirm if this is true.
• Portland museum was closed when we visited but it would be well worth the visit before or after heading to the Cove.
• If you’re peckish after then you can head to The Hayloft (open summer only) which is situated within the grounds of The Pennsylvania Castle or jump in the car and drive over to the Jailhouse Café where we had a fantastic meal.
• A bus stop can be found near Portland Museum and a small car park is also nearby.
Update: I have been informed that the pathway that leads down to the Cove has been closed from the 6th June 2025 and this is expected to last for approx 26 weeks. This is due to high risk rock falls. It's is unclear though if you can still take the pathway to the pirate graves and church ruins.
Need more ideas for things to do on the Isle of Portland?
A Family Stay at The Penn Estate
Exploring Tout Quarry Sculpture Park and Nature Reserve
High Angle Gun Battery
